I wrapped the scarf snugly but turned up the coat collar anyway. When the door opened, the cool wet air blew through my gloves, and the burn on my cheeks made me walk faster. I could see the cafe from across the street, its plate glass window steamed, shielding its occupants from the gawking of the tourists and the glares of the locals. Dodging two-way traffic, I hustled for the big door, the bell announcing my return.